How to wash a leather jacket without ruining it

Step by step: how to wash a leather jacket without ruining it

1. 1

   Read the label and check the leather type

   Look for the care tag in the lining. Most leather jackets say professional leather clean only. Put one drop of water on a hidden spot such as under the collar: if it beads up, the leather is finished and can take a leather cleaner; if it soaks in and darkens, it is unfinished or suede and needs gentler care.

2. 2

   Empty the pockets and brush off dust

   Take everything out of the pockets and lay the jacket flat or hang it on a wide hanger. Wipe the whole surface with a dry microfiber cloth to lift dust and grit, which would otherwise scratch the leather when you clean it.

3. 3

   Wipe the outside with a damp cloth

   Dampen a cloth with plain water and wring it until it is barely wet. Wipe the jacket panel by panel, working top to bottom, and pay extra attention to the collar, cuffs and the edges of the pockets where skin oil collects. The leather should look slightly darker for a moment, then dry back to its normal color.

4. 4

   Spot clean marks with leather cleaner

   Test the cleaner on a hidden area first and wait 10 minutes to check for color change. Then put a small amount on a cloth, not on the jacket, and work it over the mark in small circles. Wipe off the residue with a second clean, damp cloth.

5. 5

   Freshen the lining by hand

   Turn the sleeves and body inside out if the lining is loose. Wipe the armpits, collar and cuffs with a cloth dipped in water with a few drops of dish soap, then wipe again with a clean damp cloth. Do not soak the lining, since water can wick through to the leather.

6. 6

   Let it dry at room temperature

   Hang the jacket on a wide, shaped hanger away from radiators, heaters and direct sun. Let it dry for a few hours until it feels completely dry, inside and out. Heat can dry out or warp leather, so never use a hair dryer or the clothes dryer.

7. 7

   Condition the leather

   Once the jacket is clean and dry, rub a small amount of conditioner or leather oil into the leather with a soft cloth, using thin, even coats. Let it absorb for about 10 to 20 minutes, then buff off any excess. Expect a slightly deeper color on light leather.

Can you put a leather jacket in the washing machine?

No, unless the label specifically says the jacket is washable. Soaking and spinning a leather jacket can strip its oils, leave it stiff and cracked, shrink or twist the panels and make the dye bleed. The rare washable leathers say so clearly on the care tag; if yours does not, treat it as wipe clean and professional clean only.

Alpha Industries’ leather jacket care advice is typical of what makers recommend: wipe the surface with a soft damp cloth, spot test any cleaning method on a hidden area, and use a professional dry cleaner that specializes in leather for deeper cleaning, because general cleaners may use chemicals that damage it. It also warns against excessive moisture, long periods of direct sun and heat sources like radiators.

How to clean different types of leather jackets

Smooth finished leather is the easiest to clean at home; suede, nubuck and distressed leathers need a lighter touch.

Frye’s leather care guide says leather should be clean and dry before you apply any product, recommends regular gentle brushing for suede, and points out that distressed leathers usually lack the final protective coating, which makes waterproofing more important. It also warns that cleaning and waterproofing products can darken some leathers, so spot check in a discreet area.

What not to use on a leather jacket

Skip anything that strips oils, bleaches or soaks the hide. These are the usual culprits:

• Bleach and bleach wipes. Clorox says never to use bleach or any product containing sodium hypochlorite on any type of leather.
• Rubbing alcohol, acetone and nail polish remover, which can lift the dye and the finish.
• Baby wipes and all-purpose cleaners, which leave residue or dry the surface.
• Saddle soap on soft garment leather unless the jacket maker recommends it; it is made for tougher leathers like boots and tack.
• Too much conditioner. Thin coats once or twice a year are enough; heavy coats can leave the jacket greasy and attract dirt.

What to do if your leather jacket gets soaked

Blot it, hang it on a wide hanger and let it dry slowly at room temperature, then condition it. Lexol advises letting water-damaged leather dry naturally before cleaning and conditioning to bring back softness.

For storage, hang the jacket on a shaped wooden hanger in a breathable cotton garment bag, not plastic, which traps moisture. Leave room around it in the closet so the leather is not crushed, and keep it out of sunlight to prevent fading. For ink marks, see our ink on leather guide.

Why your leather jacket has no washing instructions

The US care labeling rule covers textile clothing, and an FTC notice on the rule lists leather and fur garments, along with gloves and hats, among the items it does not cover. So a leather jacket may carry only a short line such as “leather clean” or “professional clean only”, or no care tag at all. That is not a sign it can go in the washer.

The Drycleaning & Laundry Institute notes that leather, like wool and fur, needs a professional cleaner because of the special cleaning and pressing it requires. When you drop a jacket off:

• Ask whether the shop cleans leather itself or sends it to a leather specialist, and how long it takes.
• Point out every mark and say what caused it. DLI says to tell your cleaner what was spilled, even if you can no longer see it.
• Mention any loose seams, lining tears or missing buttons so they can be fixed before or after cleaning.
• Bring the matching belt if the jacket has one, so the two are cleaned together and stay the same color.

How to treat common marks on a leather jacket

Test anything you use on a hidden spot first, such as inside the front facing, and work with a cloth rather than pouring onto the leather.

Leather Honey also warns that water can remove some of the dye in leather and leave splotches, which is one more reason to use a barely damp cloth rather than a wet one.

How to get mildew off a leather jacket

White or green fuzz on a jacket that spent the summer in a damp closet or basement is mildew. Take it outside, brush off the loose growth with a soft brush, and then clean what is left. The University of Florida IFAS Extension gives this method for mildewed leather:

1. Test for colorfastness first in a hidden spot.
2. Wipe the leather with a cloth moistened with diluted alcohol: 1 cup denatured alcohol to 1 cup water.
3. Let it dry where the air is circulating.
4. If mildew remains, wash quickly with thick suds made from a mild soap or saddle soap, wipe with a damp cloth, and let it air dry.

Alcohol can lift dye and finish, which is why it is on the list of things to avoid for routine cleaning; here it is worth the risk only after a spot test. Denatured alcohol is flammable, so work outdoors or with windows open and keep it away from flames. Condition the jacket once it is completely dry. If the mildew covers large areas or has grown into the lining, take the jacket to a leather specialist. For mildew on cloth coats and other clothes, see our guide to getting mold out of clothes.

Suede, nubuck and shearling jackets

Keep liquids off suede and nubuck. Brush the nap with a suede brush, lift dry marks with a suede eraser, and take anything wet, oily or large to a specialist. Our suede shoe guide shows the brushing and eraser technique, which works the same way on a jacket.

Check the label to see whether the suede is real or imitation. The Drycleaning & Laundry Institute says natural suede should be cleaned by a leather-cleaning method, while imitation suedes are usually labeled as drycleanable, so a faux suede jacket can often go to a regular dry cleaner. Shearling, with the wool left on the hide, should go to a leather specialist as well.

Mistakes to avoid

• Putting the jacket in the washing machine or dryer because the lining feels dirty.
• Pouring cleaner straight onto the leather instead of onto a cloth.
• Skipping the hidden-spot test and finding out the cleaner darkens the color on the front panel.
• Drying a rain-soaked jacket next to a heater or with a hair dryer.
• Hanging it on a thin wire hanger, which stretches the shoulders out of shape.
• Using a liquid leather cleaner or conditioner on suede.
• Conditioning the jacket while it is still damp, which can trap moisture and lead to mildew.
• Rubbing a grease spot with a wet cloth instead of absorbing it with powder.