How to clean leather shoes, condition them and bring back the shine

Step by step: how to clean leather shoes, condition them and bring back the shine

1. 1

   Remove the laces and insert shoe trees

   Take out the laces so you can reach the tongue and eyelets. Slide in shoe trees, or stuff the shoes firmly with paper, so the leather is taut and creases are smoothed out while you work.

2. 2

   Brush off surface dirt

   Brush the whole shoe briskly with a horsehair brush, paying attention to the welt, the seam where the upper meets the sole. Dust and grit left there act like sandpaper when you start wiping.

3. 3

   Wipe with a damp cloth and mild soap

   Wring out a soft cloth until it is barely damp and add a drop of mild soap, or work up a light lather on saddle soap. Wipe the leather in small circles, then wipe again with a clean damp cloth to remove the soap. The leather should never look soaked.

4. 4

   Let the leather dry naturally

   Leave the shoes with the trees in at room temperature, away from sunlight and heaters, until they feel dry to the touch, usually an hour or two. Heat dries leather out and can make it crack.

5. 5

   Test, then condition

   Dab a little conditioner on a hidden spot, like the inside of the heel, and check that the color does not change. Then put a small amount on a cloth, not straight on the shoe, and rub it in with small circles from toe to heel. Leave it to absorb for 10 to 15 minutes.

6. 6

   Apply cream polish

   Use a dauber brush or cloth to work a thin layer of cream polish into the leather in small circles, a little at a time. Cream polish restores color and covers light scuffs. Let it dry for about 10 minutes.

7. 7

   Buff to a shine and relace

   Brush the shoe briskly with a clean horsehair brush, using quick side-to-side strokes, then finish with a soft cloth. You should see an even, low shine. Relace and leave the trees in when you store them.

Does the type of leather change how you clean it?

Yes. Smooth leather takes soap, conditioner and polish; suede and nubuck must be cleaned dry; patent leather only needs a wipe. Check the shoe’s care tag or the maker’s page if you are not sure which you have.

That last row matters: Thursday Boot Company lists several of its leathers that should only be brushed, never conditioned. Suede has its own method in our suede shoe guide.

How to get salt and water stains off leather shoes

Wipe salt lines with a cloth dipped in equal parts white vinegar and water, then wipe with plain water, let the shoes dry, and condition. Salt pulls oils out of the leather, which leaves those stiff white tide marks.

• Deal with salt the same day if you can; old salt stains are harder to lift fully.
• Let soaked shoes dry naturally before you clean them. Blundstone’s boot care page says to dry boots away from direct sunlight and heaters, since both dry out leather, and to test any polish on a hidden spot first.
• For a water spot on smooth leather, wipe the whole panel with a damp cloth so it dries evenly, then condition.
• Waterproof boots you wear in snow. Frye’s care guide recommends regular weatherproofing to shield leather from water, oil and stains.

What is the difference between conditioner and polish?

Conditioner feeds the leather; polish colors and protects the surface. Conditioner keeps leather supple so it creases instead of cracking, while cream polish restores color and wax polish adds shine and a thin water-resistant layer.

Cole Haan’s leather cleaning steps follow that order: brush off dirt, apply conditioner with a cloth rather than directly on the shoe to avoid dark patches, then shoe cream with a dauber, then buff with a brush. Let each step dry before the next. Some color on the cloth during conditioning is normal.

Condition every month or two for shoes you wear a lot, and whenever the leather looks dry, pale or tight. Over-conditioning can leave leather soft and sticky, so a thin layer is enough.

When to take leather shoes to a cobbler

Take them in when the problem is structural or the color is gone. Cleaning will not fix a worn-through sole, a separated welt, deep cracks across the flex point, or a stain that has changed the leather’s color.

A cobbler can resole Goodyear-welted shoes and boots several times, recolor scuffed toes, and stretch tight spots. For good leather shoes, that usually costs less than a new pair and keeps them going for years.

Mistakes to avoid

• Rubbing conditioner straight onto the shoe, which can leave dark blotches.
• Drying wet leather shoes next to a radiator, heater or fireplace.
• Using a soaking-wet cloth or washing leather shoes in the machine.
• Polishing over dirt instead of brushing and cleaning first.
• Putting conditioner or wax polish on suede, nubuck or patent leather.
• Leaving road salt on boots for weeks until it sets into white lines.