How to clean a suit jacket at home between dry cleanings

Step by step: how to clean a suit jacket at home between dry cleanings

1. 1

   Check the label and empty the pockets

   Read the care tag in the inside pocket or lining. Most wool suit jackets say dry clean only, and a few say do not dry clean, so follow it. Take everything out of the pockets so the jacket hangs straight and nothing stretches the fabric.

2. 2

   Brush the whole jacket

   Hang the jacket and brush it with short, downward strokes, following the grain of the fabric from the shoulders to the hem. Pay attention to the collar and shoulders, where dust, lint and dandruff settle. Brushing lifts surface dirt before it works into the weave.

3. 3

   Spot clean stains by dabbing

   Mix a few drops of dish soap into lukewarm water. Test it on a hidden spot such as the inside hem, then dab the stain with a clean, undyed cloth dipped in the mix. Work from the outside of the stain toward the middle and never scrub, which can fuzz or felt the wool.

4. 4

   Rinse the spot and blot it dry

   Dab the area with a second cloth dampened in plain water to remove the soap, then press it with a dry towel. Leave the spot to air dry on the hanger. A soap ring left behind is a sign you used too much soap or water.

5. 5

   Steam out wrinkles and odors

   Hold a handheld steamer a few inches from the fabric and move it slowly over the body, sleeves and back. No steamer? Hang the jacket in the bathroom while you take a hot shower. Steam relaxes creases and freshens the fabric without the shine an iron can leave.

6. 6

   Air it out

   Hang the jacket outdoors in the shade or by an open window for 4 to 5 hours to clear cooking, smoke or body odor. Keep it out of direct sun and rain.

7. 7

   Let it rest on a proper hanger

   Put the jacket on a broad, shaped wooden hanger and give it 24 to 48 hours before you wear it again. That rest lets the wool dry out and recover its shape, which cuts down on how often it needs cleaning.

Can you wash a suit jacket in the washing machine?

No, unless the label says the suit is machine washable. A tailored jacket has interlinings, shoulder pads and canvas or fused layers that can bubble, shrink or warp in water and agitation, even on a wool cycle. Some travel and performance suits are made to be washed, and their labels say so; follow those instructions exactly.

Suitsupply’s care advice is blunt: spot clean minor marks with a damp undyed cloth and a little stain remover or mild detergent, dab rather than scrub, test on a hidden spot first, and never use a washing machine. The Woolmark Company says a wool garment labeled dry clean only should go to a professional dry cleaner.

How often should you dry clean a suit jacket?

Only when it is visibly soiled, stained in a way you cannot spot clean, or smells after airing out. For most suits that means a few times a year at most. Frequent dry cleaning wears the fabric and can dull its luster.

• Suitsupply suggests limiting dry cleaning to no more than three times a year.
• Always clean the jacket and trousers together, even if only one is dirty, so they keep a matching color and texture.
• Point out stains to the cleaner and say what caused them; oil, wine and sugar each need a different pretreatment.
• Oscar Jacobson recommends brushing a few times a year even when no dirt is visible, and treating stains right away with lukewarm water and a few drops of dish soap.

Should you steam or iron a suit jacket?

Steam it. A steamer or shower steam removes wrinkles without pressing the fabric flat, and suit makers advise against irons unless the label allows one.

If you must iron, the Woolmark Company says to use the wool, medium or 2-dot setting, dampen the fabric with a little water or steam, and avoid heavy pressure, which makes wool look shiny. Never let the iron rest in one spot. A thin cotton pressing cloth between the iron and the jacket adds protection, and you should leave the lapels, which are rolled rather than creased, to the steamer or a tailor.

How to store a suit jacket so it stays clean

Store it clean, on a wide hanger, in a breathable bag. Storing a jacket with stains or sweat in it gives them time to set and attracts moths.

• Use a broad wooden hanger that fills out the shoulders. The Woolmark Company notes cedar hangers suit wool and help absorb moisture from daily wear.
• Use a cotton or other breathable garment bag. Plastic dry cleaner bags trap moisture; take the jacket out of them when you get home.
• Leave space in the closet so the jacket is not crushed between other clothes.
• For the trousers and other wool pieces, see our merino wool washing guide.

Mistakes to avoid

• Putting a structured wool suit jacket in the washing machine.
• Scrubbing a stain with a napkin, which pushes it deeper and roughs up the wool.
• Ironing the jacket directly with a hot iron and leaving shiny patches.
• Dry cleaning after every few wears instead of brushing and airing it.
• Leaving the jacket in the plastic dry cleaning bag for months.
• Cleaning only the jacket and letting the trousers age to a different shade.