Step by step: how to remove dry erase marker from clothes with rubbing alcohol
Safety first. Rubbing alcohol is flammable: use it in a ventilated room away from candles, gas flames and heaters, and let treated fabric dry before it goes near heat. Test on a hidden seam first, and do not use full-strength alcohol on acetate, triacetate, acrylic or modacrylic fabrics.
- 1
Check the marker and the fabric
Look at the marker if you can. Washable dry erase markers for kids often wash out in a normal cycle; standard dry erase markers have alcohol-based ink that needs a solvent. Check the garment label for acetate or acrylic, which alcohol can damage.
- 2
Rinse with cold water
Run cold water through the back of the stain until no more color comes out. Do not use hot water at this stage and do not rub, which spreads the ink sideways.
- 3
Test the alcohol on a hidden spot
Dab a little rubbing alcohol on an inside seam and wait a minute. If the dye bleeds onto the cotton ball or the fabric changes texture, stop and use only detergent.
- 4
Blot from the back with alcohol
Lay the stain face down on a thick pad of paper towels. Saturate a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol and dab the back of the stain. The ink will move into the paper towels; swap them for clean ones as they color so the ink does not transfer back.
- 5
Rinse and apply detergent
When no more color comes out, rinse the area with cool water. Rub liquid detergent into the spot and leave it 5 to 10 minutes.
- 6
Wash warm with color-safe bleach
Wash in the warmest water the care label allows with your usual detergent and a scoop of color-safe oxygen bleach. For a lingering shadow, soak in an oxygen bleach solution for an hour first.
- 7
Air dry and check
Let the garment air dry, then check the stain in daylight. If a faint mark is left, repeat the alcohol and wash steps before you use the dryer.
Why rubbing alcohol works on dry erase marker
Rubbing alcohol works because dry erase ink is designed to dissolve in alcohol, not water. That is why it wipes off a whiteboard and why water alone smears it on fabric.
Crayola’s stain tip for dry erase markers on clothing follows the same order as the steps above: rinse with cold water until no more color comes out, place the fabric on paper towels and blot the stain with alcohol on a cotton ball, changing the paper towels as needed, then wash in hot water with detergent and a bleach that is safe for colors. Crayola notes it cannot guarantee results, so test first. The University of Georgia Extension stain guide for felt-tip ink also uses alcohol and warns that alcohol damages acetate, triacetate, modacrylic and acrylic fibers, and should be diluted with 2 parts water on acetate.
Washable, standard and permanent markers compared
Washable dry erase marker usually needs only detergent; standard dry erase marker needs alcohol; permanent marker is a harder job.
| Marker | What works | Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Washable dry erase (kids’ markers) | Rinse, hot wash, oxygen bleach soak 1 hour, wash again | Usually comes out in one or two washes |
| Standard dry erase (Expo and similar) | Cold rinse, alcohol blotting, warm wash with color-safe bleach | Comes out on most cotton and polyester |
| Permanent marker | Alcohol blotting, repeated; sometimes a stain remover pen | Often fades rather than disappears |
For washable dry erase markers, Crayola’s washable marker tip is a hot rinse, a heavy-soil hot wash, a one-hour soak in OxiClean or Clorox 2 as the package directs, and a second wash. For permanent marker, see how to get Sharpie out of fabric.
Set-in stains, and marker on couches or carpet
A dry erase stain that went through the dryer can usually still be lightened with alcohol and an oxygen bleach soak, though it may take several rounds.
Repeat the alcohol blotting, then soak the item in an oxygen bleach solution. OxiClean’s ink and marker instructions suggest soaking for 1 to 6 hours, with 6 hours for best results on tougher marks, before washing as usual. On washable upholstery, OxiClean advises spraying the stain remover onto a white towel and blotting rather than spraying the fabric directly. For marker on the board itself, see our whiteboard cleaning guide.
Mistakes to avoid
- Scrubbing the stain under hot water, which spreads the ink into a larger halo.
- Rubbing alcohol on the front of the stain instead of blotting through the back onto paper towels.
- Reusing the same inked paper towel, which puts the color back into the fabric.
- Using rubbing alcohol on acetate or acrylic without testing.
- Drying the garment before checking that the mark is fully gone.
Products that make this easier
Optional. Everything above works with basic supplies; these just save time or effort.
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Dissolves the ink
Isopropyl rubbing alcohol, 70%
The solvent that dry erase ink is made to dissolve in. Any store brand works; keep it away from flames.
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Color-safe bleach
Clorox 2 Stain Remover and Color Booster
A color-safe bleach to add to the wash for the last shadow of ink. Not for wool, silk or leather.
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For soaking
OxiClean Versatile Stain Remover (powder)
An hour or more in an oxygen bleach soak lifts leftover color from washable and set-in marker stains.
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For school bags
Shout Wipe & Go Instant Stain Remover Wipes
Handy for a quick first blot at school or work so the ink does not sit. They will not replace the alcohol step for standard markers.
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