Step by step: how to get highlighter out of clothes
Safety first. Rubbing alcohol and hand sanitizer are flammable, so keep them away from flames and heaters. Do not use acetone on acetate, triacetate or modacrylic fabrics, and never combine bleach with other cleaners.
- 1
Blot fresh ink from the back
Lay the stain face down on a dry, folded white cloth or paper towels. Press a damp cloth on the back of the fabric so the wet ink is pushed out into the dry cloth below. Do not rub, which spreads the fluorescent dye.
- 2
Keep moving to a clean spot
Shift the dry cloth to a clean area each time you press, until no more color comes out. This removes the ink that has not yet bonded to the fibers and keeps the stain from growing.
- 3
Test rubbing alcohol on a hidden seam
Dab a little rubbing alcohol on an inside seam with a cotton swab, wait 1 to 3 minutes, then press a white towel on it. If the fabric’s own dye does not transfer, continue.
- 4
Dab the stain with alcohol until it stops bleeding
With a fresh white towel under the stain, dab rubbing alcohol or clear hand sanitizer onto the back of the spot. Let it sit for a few minutes, then blot. Repeat until no more color bleeds onto the towel, and let the area dry.
- 5
Rinse and pretreat
Rinse the spot with cool water to flush out the alcohol and loosened ink. Cover it with liquid laundry detergent or a stain remover, work it in gently and let it sit for 5 minutes.
- 6
Wash right away
Wash the garment in the warmest water the care label allows, without rinsing off the detergent. For colorfast fabrics add an oxygen bleach to the drum; for bleach-safe whites, chlorine bleach at the label dose.
- 7
Check before drying
Look at the spot while the garment is still damp. If a yellow, pink or green tint remains, repeat the alcohol and pretreat steps or soak in oxygen bleach. Dryer heat makes what is left much harder to fade.
Why is highlighter so hard to get out of clothes?
Highlighter ink is built to stain. STABILO, which makes highlighters, explains that the colorants in its highlighter inks are textile dyes developed to adsorb to fibers, in an emulsion ink that is no longer water-soluble once it dries. That is why a wet highlighter mark can be pressed out but a dry one often leaves a shadow.
STABILO’s advice for a fresh stain is to remove the excess while it is still wet by pressing it from the back of the fabric with a damp cloth into a dry absorbent cloth, then to wash the item immediately. It is candid that a completely dried highlighter stain can usually only be reduced in intensity, and that the fiber type makes a big difference. It also mentions that some customers report better results treating the spot with ox-gall soap before washing.
What removes highlighter from fabric?
Alcohol is the most useful home solvent for highlighter, followed by a detergent pretreat and, on safe fabrics, an oxygen or chlorine bleach wash.
| Treatment | Use it on | Catch |
|---|---|---|
| Rubbing alcohol | Most cottons and polyester; the University of Georgia Extension says to sponge felt-tip ink with alcohol or a prewash stain remover until all bleeding stops | Can lift some fabric dyes; test first |
| Clear hand sanitizer gel | Spots where liquid alcohol would run; Clorox notes the gel soaks into the weave without evaporating too fast | Use plain clear gel, not tinted or moisturizing |
| Liquid detergent pretreat | Every fabric that can be washed; Tide says rinse to dilute, cover with detergent for 5 minutes, then wash at the hottest temperature allowed | Works best on fresh ink |
| Diluted chlorine bleach soak | Bleach-safe whites only; Clorox suggests 1/4 cup bleach per gallon of water for 5 minutes, then wash | Never on wool, silk, mohair, leather or spandex |
| Acetone | A last resort on sturdy, colorfast cotton | Melts acetate, triacetate and modacrylic |
Can you get dried highlighter out of clothes?
You can usually fade it a lot, but not always remove it completely. Repeat the alcohol dabbing over several sessions, then soak the garment in an oxygen bleach solution for a few hours before washing again. UGA warns that laundering may set felt-tip ink, so treat before the first wash whenever you can.
- On whites, a diluted bleach soak after the alcohol step often clears the last tint.
- On colors, a faint fluorescent shadow may remain; accept it before you damage the fabric with harsh solvents.
- On dry-clean-only items, do not experiment. Take it in and say it is highlighter ink.
- For permanent marker and dry-erase marker, which behave differently, see our guides on getting Sharpie out of fabric and removing dry-erase marker.
Mistakes to avoid
- Rubbing a wet highlighter mark, which spreads the dye into a bigger patch.
- Washing the garment before treating the ink; the wash can set it.
- Using acetone on acetate linings or satin.
- Putting a still-tinted garment in the dryer.
- Treating from the front with the stain face up, so the ink is pushed deeper.
Products that make this easier
Optional. Everything above works with basic supplies; these just save time or effort.
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Lifts the ink
91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol
The go-to home solvent for felt-tip and highlighter ink. Test it on an inside seam, since it can lift some dyes.
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Stays where you put it
Purell Advanced Hand Sanitizer gel (clear)
The gel clings to the stain instead of running across the fabric. Use clear, unscented gel only.
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Pretreat before washing
Shout Triple-Acting Stain Remover spray
A quick pretreat after the alcohol step to lift the loosened dye in the wash.
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For leftover tint
OxiClean Versatile Stain Remover powder
An oxygen bleach soak that fades leftover color on colorfast fabrics. Not for wool, silk or leather.
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