How to clean hardwood floors without damaging the finish

Step by step: how to clean hardwood floors without damaging the finish

1. 1

   Find out what finish you have

   Most floors laid in the last few decades have a surface finish such as polyurethane, which forms a hard film. Older floors may be waxed, and some newer ones are oiled. Rub a fingertip across a low-traffic spot: if it leaves a smudge or the floor feels waxy, treat it as wax or oil and see the section below; otherwise follow these steps.

2. 2

   Remove grit first

   Sweep with a soft broom, dust mop with microfiber, or vacuum using the bare floor setting with the brush roll off. Grit acts like sandpaper under shoes and mop pads. Pay attention to entrances and along the toe kicks in the kitchen.

3. 3

   Choose the right cleaner

   Use a cleaner made for wood floor finishes, usually a pH-neutral spray. Avoid anything that promises to restore shine or luster, oil soaps and wax-based polishes on a polyurethane floor, because they leave a film that builds up and makes a future recoat harder.

4. 4

   Mist, do not pour

   Spray a light mist over about 3 by 3 feet at a time, or onto the mop pad itself. The floor should look barely damp and dry within a minute or two. Standing water seeps into seams and can cause cupping and a cloudy finish.

5. 5

   Mop with the grain

   Push the microfiber mop along the length of the boards, overlapping strokes, and work toward the door so you do not walk on the cleaned area. Swap to a clean pad as soon as the first one looks gray, so you are not spreading dirt around.

6. 6

   Spot clean sticky marks

   For a sticky spot, spray the cleaner onto a soft cloth and rub gently, then dry the area. Do not scrub with abrasive pads or magic erasers, which dull a surface finish and leave a patch you can see in raking light.

7. 7

   Dry any damp areas and protect the floor

   Wipe any spot still wet after a few minutes with a dry cloth. Put felt pads under chair and table legs, and breathable mats at doors, so the floor stays clean longer between washes.

How to clean hardwood by finish type

Clean according to the finish, not the wood species. The finish is what you are actually cleaning, and each type takes different products. The National Wood Flooring Association says to use a cleaner made specifically for the finish on the floor, and to ask your installer if you are not sure what you have.

What not to use on hardwood floors

Skip steam mops, wet mops and anything that adds shine. They are the most common causes of cloudy, peeling or dull hardwood.

• Steam mops and wet mops. The NWFA says both can damage the finish and the wood over time, and to wipe spills right away with a slightly damp cloth.
• Ammonia, harsh chemicals and abrasive cleaners. Shaw Floors lists these, along with oil-based wax or polish, as things to keep off its hardwood.
• Products that claim to restore luster or add shine. They leave a film that looks good briefly, then gets cloudy and can stop a recoat from bonding.
• Vinegar and water. It is acidic, and many finish makers say it can dull a finish over time. A cleaner made for the finish is safer.
• Vacuums with a spinning beater bar on wood, which can scratch and dent the surface.

How often should you clean and refinish hardwood?

Dry clean weekly, damp clean about monthly, and have the floor recoated every 3 to 5 years. The NWFA recommends a wood floor cleaner once a month and a fresh coat of finish from a professional every 3 to 5 years, depending on wear.

A recoat (also called a screen and recoat) lightly abrades the old finish and adds a new top coat; it does not remove scratches that reach bare wood. Full sanding and refinishing is for floors with gray, worn-through paths or deep damage. Keep indoor humidity steady too: Shaw recommends 35 to 55 percent to prevent gaps and cupping.

How to deal with scuffs, water marks and pet accidents

Most scuffs on a surface finish rub off with a soft cloth and a little wood floor cleaner. Deeper problems need a different fix depending on whether they sit in the finish or in the wood.

• White water rings sit in the finish or wax; black marks mean water reached the wood. Our water stain guide covers both.
• Pet urine left to dry can stain the wood itself. Blot it at once and wipe with the floor cleaner; a black stain usually needs a flooring professional.
• Surface scratches can be hidden with a touch-up marker in the floor’s color, but scratches into bare wood need a recoat or board repair.

Mistakes to avoid

• Using a steam mop, which pushes moisture into seams and clouds the finish.
• Wet mopping with a bucket, leaving water standing on the boards.
• Using “shine restoring” products or oil soap on polyurethane, which build up a dull film.
• Vacuuming with the beater bar on, which scratches the surface.
• Dragging furniture instead of lifting it, and skipping felt pads on chair legs.