Step by step: how to clean terracotta tiles without damaging the sealer
- 1
Find out if the tile is sealed
Put a few drops of water on a tile in a low-traffic corner. If it beads up, the tile is sealed; if it darkens and soaks in within a few minutes, the sealer is worn or was never applied. Unsealed terracotta stains easily, so clean it with plain water and reseal soon.
- 2
Sweep or vacuum the grit
Use a soft broom, dust mop or a vacuum with the brush roll off. Grit acts like sandpaper on the soft clay and on the sealer, so get it all up before any water goes down. Pay attention to the grout lines and the edges of the room.
- 3
Mix a pH-neutral cleaner
Dilute a pH-neutral cleaner made for sealed terracotta or natural stone in warm water, following the label. A few drops of clear dish soap in a gallon of warm water works for light cleaning. Fill a second bucket with clean warm water for rinsing.
- 4
Damp mop a small section at a time
Wring the mop until it is barely damp and clean about 3 by 3 feet at a time. Do not flood the floor; terracotta is porous and puddles can soak into worn spots and grout. Rinse the mop in the clean bucket often.
- 5
Scrub stubborn spots gently
Work a dirty grout line or a sticky spot with a nylon pad or soft brush and a little cleaner. Never use steel wool, which scratches the surface and leaves metal bits that rust. Wipe the loosened dirt up right away.
- 6
Rinse with clean water
Go over the floor once more with a mop dipped in plain warm water and wrung out. Leftover cleaner leaves a film that dulls the tile and attracts dirt. Change the rinse water when it looks cloudy.
- 7
Dry the floor
Wipe the floor dry with old towels under your feet or a dry microfiber mop. Drying stops water spots and keeps moisture out of the clay. Keep foot traffic off until it is dry to the touch.
What not to use on terracotta tiles
Do not use acidic or harsh cleaners on terracotta. Stone and terracotta supplier Limestone.com’s terracotta cleaning guide recommends cleaners made for clay surfaces with a neutral pH, and says acidic cleaners, such as those with vinegar or ammonia, should never be used. Bleach and citrus cleaners are just as hard on the sealer, so stick to products labeled for sealed terracotta or natural clay tile.
| Avoid | Why | Use instead |
|---|---|---|
| Vinegar, lemon, citrus cleaners | Acids break down the sealer and finish | pH-neutral tile cleaner |
| Bleach and ammonia | Harsh on sealer; can change the color | pH-neutral cleaner and a rinse |
| Steel wool and scouring powder | Scratches the soft clay | Nylon pad or soft brush |
| Steam mops and soaking wet mops | Push water and heat into porous tile and grout | A mop wrung nearly dry |
| Rubber or latex-backed rugs | Can bond to the sealed surface | Felt or natural fiber rugs |
How often should you seal terracotta tiles?
Check the sealer every year and reseal when water stops beading. Tile maker Jeffrey Court says its terracotta field tiles come pre-sealed and should be resealed with a high-quality sealer annually or as the sealer manufacturer recommends. Outdoor and wet areas usually wear through sealer fastest.
Roca Tile’s tile care page notes that sealing may be necessary for some quarry tile, Saltillo tile and natural stone, says to ask your tile supplier or maker whether your tile needs sealing or stripping, and says to check with your tile and sealer makers that the sealer suits the tile. A penetrating sealer keeps the matte, natural look; a topical coating adds sheen but wears in traffic lanes and eventually needs stripping.
- Clean the floor and let it dry for at least a day before sealing.
- Test the sealer on a spare tile or hidden corner to see how it changes the color.
- Apply thin coats with the applicator the label calls for, and wipe off any excess before it dries.
White haze, stains and small pits
Most terracotta problems come from minerals, oil or worn sealer, and each needs a different fix.
- White, powdery haze. Often efflorescence, salts drawn up from below as the tile dries. Brush it off dry and let the floor finish drying; if it keeps coming back, ask a tile pro about moisture under the floor.
- Oil and grease spots. Blot right away. On sealed tile, a little dish soap solution usually lifts them; set-in oil on unsealed tile may need a poultice made for stone and tile.
- Small pits. Small divots are part of the character of handmade terracotta. If one bothers you, ask your tile supplier before sanding, then touch up the sealer over the spot.
For grout lines that stay dark, see our grout cleaning guide, and use only the pH-neutral methods on terracotta.
Mistakes to avoid
- Mopping with vinegar, which eats away the sealer over time.
- Using a soaking-wet mop or a steam mop on porous tile.
- Skipping the dry sweep, so grit scratches the floor as you mop.
- Leaving cleaner residue on the floor, which makes it dull and sticky.
- Putting rubber-backed rugs on sealed terracotta.
- Sealing over a dirty or damp floor, which locks the dirt in.
Products that make this easier
Optional. Everything above works with basic supplies; these just save time or effort.
- See it on Amazon
Quick spray-and-mop
Bona Multi-Surface Floor Cleaner Spray
A ready-to-use, residue-free spray for touch-ups between full mops. Check that the label covers your sealed tile before using it on unsealed clay.
- See it on Amazon
Penetrating sealer
Miracle Sealants 511 Seal & Enhance
A penetrating sealer for porous stone and tile that also deepens the color. Test it on a spare tile first, since it will darken terracotta.
- See it on Amazon
Controls the water
O-Cedar EasyWring Microfiber Spin Mop
The spin wringer gets the mop nearly dry, which is what porous terracotta needs. Keep a second bucket for rinse water.
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