Step by step: how to clean blinds
- 1
Lower the blind and tilt the slats almost closed
Let the blind down to its full length and turn the wand until the slats are nearly, but not completely, closed. Leaving a small gap lets you reach the strip where the slats overlap, which is where dust hides.
- 2
Dust or vacuum from top to bottom
Run a vacuum brush attachment or a microfiber cloth across the slats, starting at the headrail and working down. Use light, horizontal strokes so you do not bend the slats or pull them out of the ladder cords.
- 3
Tilt the other way and repeat
Turn the wand so the slats face the opposite direction and dust again. This cleans the back of each slat without taking the blind down.
- 4
Spot clean marks on faux wood, vinyl or aluminum
Dip a microfiber cloth in warm water with a drop of dish soap and wring it until it is barely damp. Hold each slat from behind with one hand and wipe it with the other, then dry it with a second cloth. Skip this step on real wood blinds.
- 5
Wipe the headrail, bottom rail and wand
Dust the top of the headrail, which collects a surprising amount of grime, then wipe the bottom rail and the wand or cord where hands touch it. Use the same barely damp cloth on finishes that can take moisture.
- 6
Soak aluminum or vinyl blinds if they are grimy
Take the blind down, lay a towel in the bathtub to prevent scratches, and fill the tub with lukewarm water and a little mild detergent. Swish the slats gently for about five minutes, keeping the headrail and any lift mechanism out of the water, then rinse with clean water.
- 7
Dry fully before rehanging
Shake off the water, lay the blind flat on towels or hang it outside, and let it dry completely. Do not raise a blind while it is damp; trapped moisture can spot the slats and rust metal parts.
- 8
Finish with the sill and glass
Dust always falls while you work, so wipe the window sill and clean the glass last. Spray glass cleaner onto a cloth rather than the window, so it does not splash onto the blind.
How to clean blinds by material
Every blind can be dusted, but only some can get wet. Check the material before you reach for water: real wood and most fabrics should stay dry, while aluminum and vinyl can be washed.
| Blind type | Routine clean | Deep clean | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Real wood | Dry dust or vacuum with a brush | Dry dust, then an occasional wood preservative on stained finishes | Water, steam, soaking |
| Faux wood | Dust or vacuum | Spot clean with mild soap and warm water | Abrasive pads and solvents |
| Aluminum (mini blinds) | Dust or vacuum | Tub soak in lukewarm water and mild detergent, if the maker allows | Soaking the headrail or lift system |
| Vinyl vertical vanes | Dust or vacuum | Remove the vanes and soak them in mild soapy water | Hot water, which can warp them |
| Fabric vanes and shades | Vacuum lightly on low suction | Gentle spot cleaning or a professional cleaner | Soaking, scrubbing, strong spot removers |
Bali’s cleaning guide says never to use water on wooden blinds, that vinyl vanes can be removed and soaked, and that fabric vanes should not be soaked or dry cleaned. Hunter Douglas says to protect wood blinds from steam and high moisture, and suggests treating stained wood blinds now and then with lemon oil or another wood preservative.
What not to use on blinds
Avoid solvents, scrubbing cleansers and soaking any blind that is not designed for it. They can strip finishes, warp slats and ruin fabric backings.
- Hunter Douglas warns that chemical solvents, scrubbing cleansers and ultrasonic cleaning will damage its blinds, and says not to use magnetic dusting mitts on light-dimming fabrics because they damage the backing.
- Do not spray cleaner directly at a window with blinds hanging in front of it. Spray the cloth.
- Do not soak wood or fabric blinds in the bathtub. Wood swells and fabric can shrink or stain.
- If the problem is mildew rather than dust, especially in a bathroom, read our guide to removing mold before you choose a cleaner.
Check the cords while you clean
Cleaning day is a good time to check for loose cords, because corded blinds can strangle young children. The Window Covering Safety Council recommends only cordless window coverings in homes with young children.
If you cannot replace older corded blinds yet, the Council advises keeping pull cords and inner lift cords out of reach, keeping tasseled pull cords short, and anchoring continuous-loop cords to the floor or wall. Move cribs, beds and climbable furniture away from windows too.
Mistakes to avoid
- Dusting with the slats fully closed, which misses the strip where they overlap.
- Wiping real wood blinds with a wet cloth, which can swell and warp the slats.
- Soaking a blind with the headrail or lift mechanism under water.
- Raising a blind before it has dried completely.
- Pressing hard on thin aluminum slats and creasing them.
Products that make this easier
Optional. Everything above works with basic supplies; these just save time or effort.
- See it on Amazon
Several slats at once
Microfiber blind duster (multi-slat)
Fingers of microfiber slide between slats and dust both sides in one pass. Wash the sleeves often or they spread dust instead of lifting it.
- See it on Amazon
Weekly dusting
Swiffer Duster Heavy Duty
Grabs dust from slats and headrails quickly between deep cleans, and is safe on wood because it is dry.
- See it on Amazon
For stained wood blinds
Howard Lemon Oil Furniture Polish
An occasional light coat helps protect stained wood slats. Apply it to a cloth, test on one slat first, and skip it on painted or faux wood.
- See it on Amazon
Mild soap
Dawn Ultra Dishwashing Liquid
A drop in warm water cleans kitchen grease off faux wood and aluminum blinds without harming the finish.
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